As soon as the September wind felt a little cool, Qingzhou rushed into my arms.
It's not the kind of surprise, it's the kind that slowly seeps in.
On September 8, "Travel Qilu Le GO Shandong" issued a call in Tai'an. Qingzhou, an old city that is one of the nine ancient states, was quietly included in the list of "2025 Hospitable Shandong Chaocai Treasure Town" by Douyin. To be honest, various lists are overflowing these days, but Qingzhou is not like that. Its confidence has nothing to do with these false names.
What is the color of Qingzhou in autumn?
Autumn is the best time to go. The Chinese characters "Shou" carved on the cliffs of Yunmen Mountain have been carved for hundreds of years. When you stand under them, you will really feel that "you are no taller". The red leaves all over the mountains and plains surround those big vermilion characters, like a framed birthday gift.
A friend of mine said that when he was climbing a mountain, a light rain suddenly started to fall, and the mist slowly rolled up from the foot of the mountain, and the stone carvings appeared vaguely in it. At that moment, he felt that Qingzhou, a place with the characteristics of being able to hide things.
Calling Huanghuaxi "Little Jiuzhaigou in the North" is really tacky. However, walking along the wooden plank road, the woods on both sides alternately turn yellow and sometimes red, and there is the sound of rushing water, it is indeed like being in a fairy tale. It's just that the fairy tale is fictional, and the stone steps that can make people slip under their feet are real.
Qingzhou Ancient City, do you need tickets?
Free.
The shiny bluestone road is lined with old houses from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, selling all kinds of things. Hidden among them is the Ouyuan Garden, which was built during the Kangxi period. The rockery and strange rocks suddenly bring out the flavor of Jiangnan. One detail is particularly interesting - the bat-patterned wings on the screen wall are inlaid with a QR code, and when scanned out, the song "Qingzhou Minor" played on the intangible cultural heritage instrument is played.
When the old artist plucked the strings, the body of the instrument buzzed, and the frequency was actually the same as the ancient city wall.
Fan Gongting Park, which is the most beautiful at this time, has golden ginkgo leaves falling, the reflection of the ancient pavilion is swaying in the water, and the Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall is hidden in the shade of the trees. Fan Zhongyan once stayed here, and Ouyang Xiu also wrote poems. At the moment, it is full of adults and aunties doing morning exercises.
What’s delicious in Qingzhou?
There is always a queue at the entrance of Longsheng Pastry Store.
The hot, sweet and glutinous honey sandao has just come out of the oven, and it can be stringy when you take a bite. The peach cake is so crisp that it will fall apart, so you have to use your hands to eat it. Local people told me that to buy these foods, you have to go early in the morning. If you go in the afternoon, you will basically only be left with empty boxes.
The glutinous rice cake served during the "Autumn Feast in the Ancient City" is made by mixing millet with jujube and peanuts, and is boiled into a sticky state, carrying the aroma of grains. The soy sauce beef in Dongguan area has a very strong sauce aroma. Cut it into thin slices and mix it with hawthorn wine. The sweet and sour taste can relieve the greasy feeling.
The tender and juicy beef-filled Laohuashu Pan-fried Buns have many people squatting on the street to eat them at five or six in the morning. The salty tofu puffs topped with marinated sauce, paired with the pancakes that squeak when you bite them out of the pan, this is the morning in Qingzhou.
Where to stay to experience the real Qingzhou?
B&B in the ancient city.
In this alley, towards the east gate, there is a newly opened restaurant. It is close to Dongguan Street. Next to it, there are Sanhui Hot Pot and Zhao Qiang BBQ. The shop owner has an online aesthetic and keeps the room clean and tidy. When he opens the window, he can see the morning light of the ancient city falling on the bluestone slabs.
Sheyu B&B is located in the ancient city. Its small courtyard is quiet and soothing. When the sun is shining, you can sit on the terrace to let your mind wander and you can see the Fucaimen Gate Tower. Some residents say that when they go there in winter, the owner turns on the air conditioning and heating in advance, and when they step into the house, they feel warm and cozy as if being illuminated by the spring sun.
In the B&Bs located in Tongyuli and Yunmenyin areas outside the city, you can see the mountains when you open the windows. In the evening, watch the sunset gradually dye the outline of Yunmen Mountain red, and then drink a cup of tea. In this way, any troublesome things will disappear.
What do you take with you when you leave?
Decals displayed on the refrigerator. It belongs to the "No. 1, No. 1" category series newly launched by Qingzhou Museum, and has a gilt bronze bird style. The price is only a dozen yuan. Once the sticker is properly pasted on the refrigerator, every time you open the refrigerator door, you will naturally remember - well, I have been to Qingzhou in person.
An ancient combination incense brand produced by Li Na, an intangible cultural heritage inheritor. There are those in the shape of Yizi Sun jade and those in the shape of the "Qingzhou Smile" Buddha statue. They can be hung in your car or in your bag. It exudes a faint fragrance, which is just like the feeling of this city. It is faint, but it is unforgettable.
You need to buy a few boxes of Longsheng pastries, including Mi Sandao and Zaohua cakes. You also need to buy Halal glutinous rice cakes. You also need to bring a can of sophora rice tea, which has a sweet and refreshing taste.
The objects known as the Qingzhou lace set and the red silk inkstone are really too precious. However, those who truly understand their value will fall in love with them with joy. There are hundreds of cultural and creative products in the Ao Sequence, Zhuangyuan Sequence, and Qingzhao Sequence, ranging from stationery for writing to toys for people to play with. The Zhuangyuan Scroll displayed in the museum is an authentic work preserved from the Ming Dynasty. Buying a set of imitation cultural and creative products can be regarded as a touch of cultural charm.
This is about Qingzhou. Some people say that it is "an ancient prince facing the mountains and facing the sea, and the first state in the East that believes in beauty." These words came from Su Che and happened a thousand years ago.
At the moment, it is an extremely slow and leisurely small town in the middle of Shandong. The red leaves on Yunmen Mountain turn red every year. A musical instrument in the ancient city keeps sounding all day long. The newly cooked honey sandao from Longsheng Company still has the same special flavor that I have tasted in the past.
It’s best to go in autumn.
The temperature is neither cold nor hot. When the sunshine is in just the right state, when the ginkgo leaves fall down, some of them fall on the tiles of Fan Gong Pavilion, some in the gaps of the bluestone slabs, and some of them fall on your thick shoulders.
You will stop.
Then I discovered that those messy things in my heart didn’t seem to be that important anymore.
That's enough.
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