When talking about the traditional costumes from the People's Republic of China, there will always be an emotion that is unclear but real and palpable in my heart!
In the course of thousands of years of culture, our clothes are like a revolving lantern. They continue to change their appearance with the change of dynasties.
From the Qin and Han Dynasties to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, although the tradition of "correcting Shuo and changing clothes" has always existed, it has not established a set of standard styles that can continue from ancient times to the present like kimono and hanbok.
Some people say that clothing is the history of words. It records every change in society, every change in politics, and every change in economy in a different way.
There is nothing false in this statement. After more than a century, Western-style clothing styles such as suits and shirts have gradually penetrated into our daily lives. However, the elegant feeling of "Wu Dai Dangfeng" seems to be drifting away from us.
Do Hanfu and cheongsam have to compete with each other?
There is an ongoing debate about which one, Hanfu or cheongsam, is more representative of China.
There are experts who believe that cheongsam is the purest form of Chinese clothing, and there are also people who believe that cheongsam is a fusion of Chinese and Western styles and has stronger modern vitality.
To me, our Chinese nation itself is formed through the continuous integration of multiple cultures, and the same is certainly true for clothing.
When we browse Hanfu, we can find that it initially presented a "top and lower skirt" style, and then gradually developed into an integrated deep garment. The cheongsam originally had a wide style, but now it has evolved into a more slimming effect and a higher degree of slits.
These changes are consciously promoted by the common people as life conveniences and aesthetic changes change.
They are both excellent representatives of Chinese culture, but their expression methods are different.
Young people quietly made their choices at the wedding
Once you observe carefully, you can find that there are many young people nowadays. On wedding occasions, the bride almost always chooses cheongsam as the second dress to wear without any discussion.
This is actually very revealing. It is in line with modern people's aesthetics and activity habits. The slim fit can not only show off the figure, but also facilitate walking and toasting.
This is the simplest and most vivid inheritance.
In comparison, although Hanfu is particularly gorgeous and has a strong visual impact, it is still too far away from our current lives.
What it pursues is solemnity and complexity, with long straps and layered ways of wearing. It is indeed not practical in daily work and life.
Nowadays, there are some designers who try to "improve Hanfu". However, they often lose the charm and are in a bit of a dilemma.
There are so many clothes, it can’t be either/or
In fact, our cultural treasures include more than just Hanfu and cheongsam.
Tang suit or Chinese tunic suit, which one is not famous?
There are 56 ethnic groups, each with their own festival costumes. The Dai people's tube skirts are very distinctive, and the Miao people's silver jewelry are very exquisite. They are each unique and so beautiful that it is difficult to take your eyes away.
China has a very long history and a large number of dynasties, and any kind of clothing can only represent a certain fragment of it.
If we must select a "unique" national costume, it will limit the rich and diverse characteristics of our culture.
Just like peonies are used to represent all flowers, where should the noble qualities of plum blossoms and the elegant qualities of orchids be placed?
The charm of culture lies precisely in its diversity and tolerance. We really need to get rid of this fixed "either/or" thinking pattern.
Instead of arguing, it is better to think about how to keep "old craftsmanship" alive
What I really care about is not debating which kind of clothes is the "most authentic", but how to make these traditional clothing cultures "dynamic and sustainable".
We knowledgeable people in the clothing industry should take a longer-term view.
How to invite the beautiful patterns and exquisite craftsmanship left by our ancestors, such as Yun brocade, Su embroidery, and Song brocade, from museums to systematically organize, protect and develop them, and finally build them into a competitive cultural industry. This is the best way to promote their continuation.
Protecting traditional clothing culture is a task with heavy responsibilities and a long way to go. It requires the joint efforts of industry associations, the active participation of scientific research institutions, the contributions of designers, and the joint efforts of ordinary consumers.
Properly coordinate resources and exert power in the same direction. Only in this way can this beautiful scenery not only be preserved in books and museums, but also truly penetrate into our daily life scenes.
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